
I used to think that longboards were probably just their thing and I wasn’t interested in surfing something that looked so difficult to manoeuvre, maybe I also was caught up in the longboards are for old men bollocks. Anyway, all I know is having a big board on days when it’s knee-high and sunny is a blast! To be honest the waves on Sunday were weak but they were glassy and if you found a good bank there were some real fun ones to be had. I like big boards. There, I said it.