The waves have returned this week after a flat spell which drenched us in sunshine for most of the month. It’s done wonders for the water temp, I surfed this wedgey little swell in my 3/2 and it’s probably the warmest I’ve felt out in the water in the UK.
Had some short but sweet rides on my 5’7 in Bude’s semi-closeout ramps, it’s good to have a dip to wash the cobwebs off! Going to take the Otta for a run out tomorrow I think.
Weekend before last was a cracker for weather and waves, a small reasonably groomed swell, very light winds and some spring time sunshine made it feel like a mini summer. I hope everyone got in and had some fun. I managed a few hours in the water on my simmonsy thing in little thigh to waist high walls and was grinning from ear to ear when I got out – sun and surf will do that to you, oh and I wasn’t wearing a hood either….!
Now we’re back to cold and wet westerlies and the jackets are back on when out and about, let’s hope the next spell of pleasant stuff comes along shortly.
I had a real comedy session early last week, largely revolving around my indecision and the reason for my indecision (bad choices drive more indecision)… Knowing when to de-hood has normally been a fairly easy one for me, last few years it’s generally been the last surf in March or certainly the first in April. We’ve normally had a spell of warmer stuff by late March and the sea temp creeps up to a level where it’s a little ice creamy on the noggin as you duck dive but quite bearable. Then usually it’s a steady path to de-rubbering right up to June when you’re back in a nice thin 3/2 with no boots or gloves to weigh you down until the cold comes calling all too soon sometime in autumn.
However this year has been a bit of a different beast, the winter has been long(er than usual!) and really drawn out – prolonged by months of prevailing easterly wind which gave with one hand and took with the other. It gave us offshores making the most of the North Atlantic’s winter juice but took away any warmth the normally prevalent south westerlies provide keeping our shores just the right side of arctic for most of the winter, instead we were experiencing fun temperatures such as 1 and 4 degrees celcius in the middle of April.
So the hood has stayed on, continuing to encase my face in neoprene a little longer which brings me back to last week’s go out. I hit one of the Bude town beaches at first, it was sunny, the temperature had crept into double figures and I was thinking this could be the start of spring…. that hood can come off soon maybe? I hit the water in full gear (yeah the hood was on), it didn’t feel too cold but the waves were poor, shapeless sucky 2-3ft low tide closeouts crashing in 1ft of water. This is not fun. After 20 minutes or so of looking for an open face I retreated, still in full gear and drove to Widemouth in the hope of finding a bank that was working there.
This looks more promising, not great but there were definitely some walls on offer if you were in the right spot. I’d taken the hood off for the drive and the air was welcomingly mild. This is it. No hood. Ear plugs in, jogging to the shoreline, first no hood surf of the year – lovely stuff! It’s not too big so I shouldn’t have to worry about duck diving. Oh a set’s coming, duck, Ahhhhhhhhhwwwwwgghhhhhh!! The first one was quite bad, grabbing my head in a cold vice like grip but I thought I could shake it off. Two more duck dives followed before I was in the sanctuary of the outside although my head felt like an ice cube. I’d already messed about this session by switching spots but I knew if I didn’t get a wave in and get my hood my cold head would distract me for the rest of the sesh. So I caught the next wave in and feeling like a right bell-end retreated to the van for some head warming rubber. I ended up getting a few fun waves during the remainder of the then hooded session but nothing to crow about…. Certainly one of those outings where you’re thinking “This is a lot of bloody effort for a couple of cold ones (waves not beers)!”
Having said all this it’s been sunny and even hot at times for much of this week and there’s some swell on the way for the bank holiday weekend. I think it’s time to try no hood again…..
Last weekend the Atlantic delivered a healthy dose of swell and offshore winds to South West England – only downside being that due to the strength of the easterlies most of Northern Europe was plunged into full on mid-winter mode just when we thought we might be escaping the iron grip of the cold months. In fact the wind has not yet let up and as I type its 3c outside and the fire is roaring away, this was not how I had envisaged my first April living in the West Country but the weekend’s waves made me forget about the cold for a while.
I surfed the Bude area for the most part, the best waves being half an hour of dredging little right handers on a new 5’7 Cre8tion Pepper Jelly shortboard that I’ll post up some info on later (she’s fast and fun!). These rights were out of the wind a little and although smaller than a lot of the open beaches they had great shape and allowed a couple of flowing turns maximising the grin factor. The worst session involved a more humbling experience at a head high reef break where I did little more than paddle around and get rag dolled by the jacking peaks of the set waves…. it’s all part of surfing I guess!
This was Widemouth Bay yesterday – dark, misty, moody and damp, sums up North Cornwall quite well I think! Waves were big and thumping in, difficult to judge size but the bigger sets were getting on towards double overhead on the face I reckon but the swell was lumpy and disorganised hence no-one out, may have been a few spots down the coast handling the swell a little better though.
Photography & Thoughts on Surfing, Cycling, Football and Some Other Crap