Spring Swell at Woolacombe

This shot was from the last groundswell we had in the South West a couple of weeks ago, waves were chest high and walling up really nicely. Water still crazy cold for approaching mid-April and I was still fully clobbered up in 5mm and a hood (normally hoodless by this time of year) but that never seems to matter much when there’s no wind and the waves are that fun. The short and porky Cre8tion Pepperjelly was going like a dream on the couple of peeling rights I had, starting to feel how to rock the board from rail to rail using the vee along the tail for smooth transitions, it can be tricky as the tail is so wide but once you get in a rhythm it feels very natural and you can really maintain some speed harnessing all that foam. Foam is fun.

5’7 of foamy fun


Easter Swell


Last weekend the Atlantic delivered a healthy dose of swell and offshore winds to South West England – only downside being that due to the strength of the easterlies most of Northern Europe was plunged into full on mid-winter mode just when we thought we might be escaping the iron grip of the cold months. In fact the wind has not yet let up and as I type its 3c outside and the fire is roaring away, this was not how I had envisaged my first April living in the West Country but the weekend’s waves made me forget about the cold for a while.


I surfed the Bude area for the most part, the best waves being half an hour of dredging little right handers on a new 5’7 Cre8tion Pepper Jelly shortboard that I’ll post up some info on later (she’s fast and fun!). These rights were out of the wind a little and although smaller than a lot of the open beaches they had great shape and allowed a couple of flowing turns maximising the grin factor. The worst session involved a more humbling experience at a head high reef break where I did little more than paddle around and get rag dolled by the jacking peaks of the set waves…. it’s all part of surfing I guess!